Same for extra batteries if you have them. A split second can make the difference between a great shot and a not so great shot. Remember though, that when you're in Continuous shooting mode you can keep your finger on the shutter button and the camera will keep shooting until it fills the buffer, so make sure you have plenty of media cards if you’re going to shoot in this manner. If the camera you’re using lets you choose between Continuous High or Continuous Low framing rates and you’re photographing a lot of action or are afraid you’ll miss a great shot and want to capture as many frames as the camera will record, set it to Continuous High. Set the camera to Continuous shooting mode (AF-C) to track your moving subjects. White Balanceįor white balance, set the camera to Auto or if its sunny to Direct Sunlight similarly, if its cloudy or overcast set it to Cloudy. The camera will adjust the ISO based on the amount of light and readjust when the sun is obscured and the light level drops. If its cloudy, and the sun is often breaking through the clouds and then disappearing again set the camera to Auto ISO. If you’re setting your exposure manually, set the ISO high enough for the available light to allow you to use the shutter speed and aperture combination you want to freeze the action. Using a smaller aperture will give you more depth of field in your images. Set the shutter speed for 1/500 or faster. You’ll want to use a relatively fast shutter speed to be able to freeze the action of whales feeding or breaching, slapping their tails or pectoral fins on the water. If you’re comfortable setting the exposure manually go ahead and do so or use shutter priority in which you set the shutter speed and the camera selects the appropriate aperture. If it doesn’t have any Scene Modes, set the camera to Auto. If you want the camera to do the heavy lifting for you-meaning you don’t want to have to think about settings, set the camera to Sports Mode if it has Scene Modes. The Z series full-frame cameras have VR built into the camera bodies which supports all S-line Z lenses and if you're using a non-VR F-mount NIKKOR lens on your Nikon Z with the Mount Adapter FTZ you can enjoy all of the benefits of VR technology. If you’re on the shore, you can leave the setting on Normal. This compensates for the movement of the boat. If your lens also gives you the option of selecting from Active or Normal and you’re taking pictures from a boat set the VR setting to Active. If you’re using a VR (Vibration Reduction image stabilization) built-in lens on your DSLR, you’ll want to turn ON the VR. You may end up doing a lot of your shooting at the telephoto end of the lens, but don’t discount the wider end of the zoom which you can use to show the breadth of the ocean and the animals who live there. For example, using the 200-500mm lens on a DX camera or on an FX camera in DX mode will give you a zoom range of 300-750mm. Nikon cropped sensor cameras (DX) automatically add the 1.5x crop factor onto the focal length of a lens. When using a Nikon full frame (FX) camera, you can manually set the camera to DX shooting mode and that will give you a 1.5x crop factor which will effectively give you a little bit more zoom reach. Some options to think about: a focal length range of around 55-200mm, 70-300mm, 28-300mm all the way up to the 200-500mm lens. You’ll want to use a zoom lens, because you never know when the wildlife will decide to check out the boat you’re in or come close to shore. Your choice of lens is the most important decision you’ll make when it comes to being able to fill the frame with your subject.
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